Your water heater is most likely the most significant element of your properties plumbing method. A properly maintained heater can last from ten to fifteen years or additional. But, a heater not appropriately maintained can fail in four to six years. The condition of the drinking water in your area and the location of the heater in your home are out of your manage, but correct upkeep of the heater and your plumbing method is important to heater longevity and security.
This article provides you a list of items to verify for both tank type and tankless water heaters. As you go by way of the measures in checking your heater, if you have the slightest doubt in your capacity, get a specialist, licensed plumber involved! You are dealing with hot water, natural gas, and electrical energy!
Tank Form Water Heater Upkeep:
Vent (Gas Water Heaters Only)
The vent really should be the similar diameter as the draft diverter on the heater tank.
The vent need to go typically “up and out” the ceiling.
Where is passes through the exterior wall, the vent must be double-walled.
Vent sections must be screwed together with a minimum three screws per section.
Note: Poor vent pipe connections can fall apart and lead to carbon monoxide poisoning, the silent and deadly gas!
Temperature & Stress Relief Valve (T&P Valve)The T&P valve is created to avert the heater from exploding if the water pressure or temperature exceeds safe limits.
Pull up the manage on the valve and water should really flow out and cease when you let go of the deal with.
The T&P valve has a drain line that should really go down to about 6″ from the floor or be plumbed outdoors your property.
Note: Water leaking out of a T&P drain line can signal a negative T&P valve, high water stress, or a malfunctioning thermal expansion device.
Water Pressure (All Water Heaters)
Water stress more than 80 pounds per square inch (psi) can damage heaters and your piping. It can also damage plumbing appliances, toilets, and your fixtures.
Note: One particular giveaway that your have high water pressure is when the T&P Valve on the heater starts opening and closing.
Outer Water Heater Metal Shell & Plumbing Fittings
Inspect the heater outer sheet metal shell for leaks or rusting.
Inspect the plumbing fittings on the heater for corrosion, rust, or water spotting.
Note: Rusty fittings or discolored shell is a telltale sign that a leak is present!
Temperature Manage
Inspect the heater temperature manage dial to insure its set at the right water temperature.
The excellent water temperature is 120° Fahrenheit.
Note: Anything above 120° Fahrenheit significantly increases scalding risk, power use, and sediment build-up in the bottom of the heater!
Combustion Chamber (Gas Water Heaters)
Turn the gas valve manage to “pilot position”.
Get rid of the outer access hatch or cover on the side of the heater.
Inspect the roof of the chamber for heavy rusting, water marking, or pitting.
Return the gas valve control back to the “on position”.
Note: Black soot in the combustion chamber indicates drafting challenges, combustion complications, fume issues, and a fire hazard!
Pedestal Base (Gas Water Heaters)
Make sure the pedestal base the heater rests on is stable and supports the unit.
The typical pedestal will keep the bottom of the heater at least 18″ off the floor.
Note: A newer water heater may have a “filtered combustion chamber” that is supposed to resolve the have to have for a pedestal. Verify the owner’s manual for your heater.
Drain Valve
Open the drain valve to insure that mineral sediment, anode sludge, or rust has not clogged your heaters drain.
Drain Overflow Pan
If your heater is on the 2nd floor above living space it must have a drain pan.
The drain pan must be plumbed to the outside of your dwelling.
Inspect the condition of the drain pan, fittings, and piping to the outside.
Corrosive Fumes (Gas Water Heaters & Tankless Water Heaters)
Water heaters draw air in for combustion and the high quality of the air is critical.
Water Heater Repair , ammonia, or acids stored close to a heater can lead to corrosive air.
Note: Corrosive air drawn into the burner can prematurely corrode the heater.
Internal Tank Corrosion and Rust-The internal tank of your heater is constructed of steel and glass lined to prevent rust. Sacrificial anode rods are installed in the tank to protect the glass lined internal steel tank from rust. Aluminum/Zinc or magnesium anode rods corrode over time and get employed up through an electrolytic course of action.
Note: Replacing the anode rod can extend the life of the heater but, need to be performed by a educated, specialist service technician.
Sediment Build-up-Sediment is made when challenging water is heated. The build-up of sediment in the bottom of the tank can lead to the bottom to overheat and melt away the glass lining of the tank. It can drift into recirculating lines, jam open check valves, and trigger the recirculating pump to stick till it burns out. Sediment build-up on the bottom of gas water heaters encourages noisy operation. The noise is caused by little amounts of water below the sediment layer turning into steam bubbles, which then collapse violently.
Note: Sediment construct-up can cut down the energy efficiency of the heater and void the warranty on some Residential Water Heaters!
Tankless Water Heater Maintenance:
Flushing-Most tankless water heater producers advocate flushing the entire unit each and every six months to 1 year depending upon the water excellent. Reference your manufactures recommendation for flushing. Flushing the unit on a regular basis removes any mineral deposits (ordinarily calcium or lime) that may have built up inside the boilers. Suppliers recommend utilizing a utility pump to circulate three or four gallons of vinegar or an additional low-grade acid for 45 minutes to clean out any deposits.