Your water heater is most likely the most significant element of your properties plumbing method. A properly maintained heater can last from ten to fifteen years or additional. But, a heater not appropriately maintained can fail in four to six years. The condition of the drinking water in your area and the location of the heater in your home are out of your manage, but correct upkeep of the heater and your plumbing method is important to heater longevity and security.<\/p>\n
This article provides you a list of items to verify for both tank type and tankless water heaters. As you go by way of the measures in checking your heater, if you have the slightest doubt in your capacity, get a specialist, licensed plumber involved! You are dealing with hot water, natural gas, and electrical energy!<\/p>\n
Tank Form Water Heater Upkeep:<\/p>\n
Vent (Gas Water Heaters Only)<\/p>\n
The vent really should be the similar diameter as the draft diverter on the heater tank.
The vent need to go typically “up and out” the ceiling.
Where is passes through the exterior wall, the vent must be double-walled.
Vent sections must be screwed together with a minimum three screws per section.
Note: Poor vent pipe connections can fall apart and lead to carbon monoxide poisoning, the silent and deadly gas!<\/p>\n
Temperature & Stress Relief Valve (T&P Valve)The T&P valve is created to avert the heater from exploding if the water pressure or temperature exceeds safe limits.<\/p>\n
Pull up the manage on the valve and water should really flow out and cease when you let go of the deal with.
The T&P valve has a drain line that should really go down to about 6″ from the floor or be plumbed outdoors your property.
Note: Water leaking out of a T&P drain line can signal a negative T&P valve, high water stress, or a malfunctioning thermal expansion device.<\/p>\n
Water Pressure (All Water Heaters)<\/p>\n
Water stress more than 80 pounds per square inch (psi) can damage heaters and your piping. It can also damage plumbing appliances, toilets, and your fixtures.
Note: One particular giveaway that your have high water pressure is when the T&P Valve on the heater starts opening and closing.<\/p>\n
Outer Water Heater Metal Shell & Plumbing Fittings<\/p>\n
Inspect the heater outer sheet metal shell for leaks or rusting.
Inspect the plumbing fittings on the heater for corrosion, rust, or water spotting.
Note: Rusty fittings or discolored shell is a telltale sign that a leak is present!<\/p>\n
Temperature Manage<\/p>\n
Inspect the heater temperature manage dial to insure its set at the right water temperature.
The excellent water temperature is 120\u00b0 Fahrenheit.
Note: Anything above 120\u00b0 Fahrenheit significantly increases scalding risk, power use, and sediment build-up in the bottom of the heater!<\/p>\n
Combustion Chamber (Gas Water Heaters)<\/p>\n
Turn the gas valve manage to “pilot position”.
Get rid of the outer access hatch or cover on the side of the heater.
Inspect the roof of the chamber for heavy rusting, water marking, or pitting.
Return the gas valve control back to the “on position”.
Note: Black soot in the combustion chamber indicates drafting challenges, combustion complications, fume issues, and a fire hazard!<\/p>\n
Pedestal Base (Gas Water Heaters)<\/p>\n
Make sure the pedestal base the heater rests on is stable and supports the unit.
The typical pedestal will keep the bottom of the heater at least 18″ off the floor.
Note: A newer water heater may have a “filtered combustion chamber” that is supposed to resolve the have to have for a pedestal. Verify the owner’s manual for your heater.<\/p>\n
Drain Valve<\/p>\n
Open the drain valve to insure that mineral sediment, anode sludge, or rust has not clogged your heaters drain.
Drain Overflow Pan<\/p>\n
If your heater is on the 2nd floor above living space it must have a drain pan.
The drain pan must be plumbed to the outside of your dwelling.
Inspect the condition of the drain pan, fittings, and piping to the outside.
Corrosive Fumes (Gas Water Heaters & Tankless Water Heaters)<\/p>\n